Quick wallpaper guide
General information about wallpaper
Simply know how it's done.
Nothing is better than feeling comfortable in your own home. And with wallpaper , it's easy to express your personal taste in no time at all. All you need is a large selection of wallpaper designs, the right tools and practical tips from the pros to ensure that everything turns out just right. After all, it's often the little things, such as the wrong paste, insufficient soaking time or old residue on the wall, that can spoil the end result. With a few simple rules, you can avoid these problems in advance and effortlessly create your dream home.
Five golden rules for wallpapering:
- Remove old wallpaper first
- Make sure you have the same product and production number
- Keep windows and doors closed and turn off the heating
- Allow the wallpaper to soak sufficiently
- Stick the wallpaper flush against the wall.
In the following sections, we explain the differences between paper wallpaper, non-woven wallpaper, photo wallpaper and other types, what quality seals are available, what the different wallpaper symbols mean, and how you can easily calculate how much wallpaper you need yourself.
What different types of wallpaper are there?
In the realm of colors, patterns, and shapes, it's nice to be spoiled for choice. But which wallpaper is best suited to different rooms and walls in terms of surface, material, and printing technique?
Paper wallpaper consists of two layers of paper laminated together – often referred to as duplicated. Only the top layer is printed or embossed, so that the embossing remains visible even after the wallpaper has been hung.
Embossed wallpaper has a layer of paper that is coated with an expanded, usually multicolored, three-dimensional color paste print. It is particularly easy to work with and is also suitable for walls that are subject to heavy wear.
Vinyl wallpaper consists of a coated paper that is hot embossed after printing. This creates a particularly attractive surface appearance. It is also suitable for walls subject to heavy wear or damp rooms.
Non-woven wallpapers have a high-quality special non-woven backing. They are particularly easy to work with because non-woven material is dimensionally stable: it does not stretch or shrink. This eliminates the need for soaking after pasting, and the wallpaper strips can be applied directly to the pasted wall or ceiling. Small tears and uneven areas can also be easily covered. And if you want to change the wallpaper? The non-woven material can be removed dry and effortlessly – without leaving any residue.
Non-woven wallpaper for painting over (e.g., from the Wallton, Feel Good, or PURE collections) are white relief or embossed wallpapers on non-woven backing that can be painted with a color of your choice after hanging. Creative painting techniques, such as wiping or dabbing, or a glaze can also be used here.
Setting the right tone
Certified quality looks great on any wall. That's why all rasch wallpapers carry the RAL quality mark, the CE mark, and the FSC® label. In addition, all materials, colors, and production steps are subject to comprehensive quality management.
RAL quality mark
This quality mark guarantees that you are purchasing high-quality, tested products. Together with the German Institute for Quality Assurance and Labeling (RAL), the Federal Environment Agency, the Federal Health Office, and wallpaper manufacturers, comprehensive quality standards have been established, compliance with which is constantly monitored by an independent body. Manufacturers such as rasch completely refrain from using additives such as toxic pigments containing heavy metals in printing inks, chlorine or aromatic solvents , CFCs and vinyl chloride monomers.
CE mark
The CE mark is based on EU law and indicates that products have been tested for safety. It has been mandatory for wallpaper since January 1, 2011, ensuring that all products comply with the applicable European directives in accordance with the EN 15102 standard. This standard specifies all requirements and properties that wall coverings must meet in terms of their fire behavior, formaldehyde emissions, hazardous substances, heavy metals, and vinyl chloride monomer.
FSC® label
The Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC) seal of approval can be found, for example, on our wallpapers on paper or non-woven backing, where the wood content comes from environmentally friendly and socially responsible forestry. The organization's certification system is standardized and internationally recognized, ensuring that the certified products actually come from responsibly managed forests.
What do the symbols on my wallpaper roll mean?
Wallpaper symbols are more than just a formality. Standards are important here. All wallpapers are quickly identified on the label with symbols that are specified in the official DIN EN 235 standard. The wallpaper symbols provide information about the properties, quality, and correct application, for example.
Find out what the wallpaper symbols mean here.
How much wallpaper do I need?
So that everything goes smoothly when buying wallpaper.
A standard roll of wallpaper, known as a Euro roll, is 53 cm wide and 10.05 m long. This is sufficient for around 5 m² of wall space. However, you will also find wider rolls in our online shop. So-called double-width rolls are not cut in half during production and are 106 cm wide.
Have you already found your dream wallpaper but don't know how many rolls to order? No problem, we provide a roll calculator on every product detail page that you can use to calculate how much wallpaper you need. Simply enter the height and width of your room here. You can then conveniently add the calculated number of rolls to your shopping cart.
Before processing – the right preparation
Check before you commit
Our wallpapers are checked for defects during production. However, you should also check the wallpaper yourself before wallpapering. Please note the following points:
Checking the delivery
Does the delivery match the goods ordered and has the correct quantity been delivered?
When purchasing and before removing the transparent packaging, it is important to check the production number on the label at the bottom of the white bar. All rolls intended for one room or wall must come from the same production run.
Are all sides the same? You can check whether the sides of a wallpaper are the same using the fan test. To do this, cut approx. 1 m from the wallpaper roll. Then fold the sides of the strip with the outer pattern facing inwards so that the two outer edges are directly next to each other. In most cases, any differences between the sides will then be immediately visible. While cutting the strips and during wallpapering, check the wallpaper and the print pattern again carefully for any defects! It is advisable to keep any leftover pieces and the insert sheet.
Wallpapering tools
From basic equipment to professional tools.
Basically, all you need is a folding ruler, a pair of scissors and a foam rubber roller to press down and fix the new wallpaper. However, there are a number of additional useful tools available.
Substrate preparation
The optimal basis for beautiful wallpaper design
To give walls a new wallpaper shine, the basis must be right. This means that the substrate must be dry, smooth, firm, clean, and also load-bearing and absorbent. This not only ensures optimal results, but also makes wallpapering easier.
The different surfaces at a glance
Below, we have provided a brief overview of the most common surfaces. This overview will help you determine how to best prepare the surface for your wallpapering project.
The absorbency test, also known as the water test, helps you determine how absorbent your wall is. To do this, moisten the wall to be wallpapered and observe whether the wall absorbs the water. If your wall does not absorb the water or if the water beads up, this means that you must pre-treat the wall.
New lime-cement plaster
Perform a wetting test with water (absorbency test)
If necessary, roughen and sand down to remove sintered layers that may have formed due to excessive binder enrichment
Prime with a pigmented wallpaper primer
Gypsum plaster
Perform a wetting test with water (absorbency test).
If necessary, roughen and sand down to remove sintered layers that may have formed due to excessive binder accumulation. Pre-paste
Plasterboard
For non-woven wallpaper, use a pigmented wallpaper primer, as otherwise the white filler joints may show through the dried non-woven wallpaper.
or primer with wallpaper primer (water-soluble) for vinyl or relief wallpaper with paper backing
Concrete surfaces
Perform a wetting test with water (absorption test)
If necessary, roughen and sand down to remove sintered layers that may have formed due to excessive binder enrichment
Prime with a pigmented wallpaper primer
If the absorbency is too low, use waste paper or renovation fleece if necessary
Wood substrates
Wood-based materials such as chipboard or MDF boards may cause “bleeding” of wood constituents.p>
For professional wallpaper application, priming with a diluted styrofoam adhesive as a bonding bridge is recommended
It may be necessary to apply a roll of waste paper or a renovation fleece
The right paste
Wallpaper or paste the wall, that is the question
There is a suitable paste for every type of wallpaper. This is also necessary because materials behave very differently. You can find out which paste is right for you in the insert that comes with each of your new wallpaper rolls. Here we show you once again which wallpaper paste you need for which wallpaper. With our Premium Wallpaper Paste, you are well equipped for almost all of our wallpapers. The premium wallpaper paste from rasch is suitable for textile wallpaper, non-woven wallpaper, vinyl wallpaper, and waste paper fleece.
Paste for non-woven wallpaper:
A non-woven wallpaper paste can be applied directly to the wall. The paste can be left on the wall for a long time without drying out. This is particularly important for the wall gluing technique. In addition, this paste is very low-splash. And that's not all: with the appropriate substrate preparation, the wallpaper can be easily removed again later when dry.
Paste for vinyl and relief wallpapers:
A special paste plus 20–30% dispersion adhesive additive. The dispersion content in the special paste ensures that the backing paper of split wallpapers such as vinyl or relief wallpapers adheres firmly to the substrate. Initial adhesion is also improved. If the wallpaper adheres firmly, the backing paper can be used as scrap paper for subsequent wallpapering.
Paste for paper wallpaper:
A normal or special paste has the advantage that it does not stain as much because it does not contain any dispersion components. However, the special paste is also recommended for paper wallpaper due to its good processing properties.
Paste for renovation fleece:
New plaster paste is a high-quality paste with adhesive-enhancing additives. It is easy to apply, spreads perfectly and, thanks to its high moisture resistance, is ideal for new plaster. A pure dispersion adhesive can also be used if the renovation fleece is to remain firmly on the wall during subsequent renovation work and also serve as a substrate for subsequent wallpapering.
Another option for fresh plaster or concrete substrates is to use a ready-mixed dispersion filler, e.g., when reworking glass fiber mesh that has been painted over several times. In this case, the adhesive is applied to the glass fiber mesh with a notched trowel. Now simply lay the renovation fleece in place when dry and smooth it with a trowel or wallpaper scraper.
An important tip: The renovation fleece should be pre-pasted thinly for subsequent wallpapering. This is because with the “fleece on fleece” method, some of the paste migrates into the renovation fleece and some of the paste into the back of the non-woven wallpaper, which can sometimes cause adhesion problems .
Custom wall coverings
Before unpacking and cutting, always check the wallpaper rolls for identical item and production numbers as well as pattern and color consistency.
When wallpapering, unexpected room characteristics often come to light. Where everything else appears to be straight and even, there may suddenly be a few centimeters missing here and there. For this reason, measure the height of the room carefully. In older buildings in particular, walls can sometimes have different dimensions. Then add another 5–10 cm for trimming and you will have the correct strip length.
If the patterns are seamless, all strips can be cut continuously from the roll. If the pattern is straight, all strips are identical, so the patterns can be placed directly on top of each other for cutting. If the pattern is offset, the pattern shifts by half the pattern repeat every second strip, so every second strip is identical. It is also important that the wallpaper is only rolled out in one direction.
The golden rule: 2/3 to 1/3
Non-woven, paper, or vinyl? All rasch wallpaper rolls contain an insert that tells you exactly which type of paste is best suited for the respective wallpaper type. As a general rule, the paste must be stirred well into cold water and then left to soak for a sufficient amount of time.
For non-woven and textured non-woven wallpapers, the paste can simply be applied evenly to the wall and the wallpaper then placed directly into the paste bed.
For all other types of wallpaper, the wallpaper strip is first pasted evenly from the center on the pasting table. To ensure that the wallpaper is well soaked and easy to transport, fold the strip 2/3 from the top and 1/3 from the bottom. Now just roll it up and let the paste soak for approx. 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the instructions. The soaking time is important for the wallpaper to adhere perfectly to the wall without bubbles. Therefore, make sure that all strips are soaked for the same amount of time.
How to apply the wallpaper correctly to the wall
To ensure that everything runs straight and smooth when wallpapering, the first strip is aligned vertically using a spirit level or a plumb line so that the following strips of wallpaper run completely straight. Start at the window and wallpaper “with the light.”
The strip of wallpaper should be placed with a slight overlap at the ceiling. This allows you to compensate for any differences in height, especially in older buildings. It is best to place the soaked strip of wallpaper over your bent left arm and slowly pull up the upper 2/3 overlap. Then work your way down to the lower third. Press the strips onto the wall with a soft wallpaper brush or foam rubber roller, working from the center outwards and towards the sides to avoid bubbles. If necessary, you can pre-paste the seam area .
Wallpaper is hung “butt-jointed” so that the edges of the two strips meet exactly. Press down the resulting seam with a conical or rubber seam roller. Do not use a seam roller on embossed paper wallpaper, as this will press the embossing flat. It is better to carefully fix the seam area with a soft cloth.
If any paste is visible or has stained the wall, dab it immediately with a damp sponge or cloth – but never rub or wipe. If the paste is not removed until after a considerable amount of time, discoloration or shiny spots may appear on the wallpaper surface. While the wallpaper is drying on the wall, do not heat or ventilate the room too much, as this may cause the seams to burst. A room temperature of 15 to 20 degrees Celsius is ideal.
Corners, doors, radiators, and more. Tips and tricks for wallpapering.
Corners
It's good to think about corners – but wallpapering corners isn't difficult either. The strips are not glued across the corner, but one side after the other. To do this, position the wallpaper so that it overlaps the corner to be wallpapered by approx. 0.5 cm. Once the strip is in the right position, glue the overlap around the corner. Now align the remaining strip on the new wall and reposition it. To ensure that the corner area adheres better, secure the overlap with a dispersion adhesive.
Doors
For doors, always start on one side and then wallpaper towards the other side – never wallpaper from two sides towards the middle. Divide the wallpaper strip at the height of the horizontal top edge of the door frame, if the pattern allows. Press the wallpaper along the vertical outer edge of the frame and cut off the excess. If necessary, work a strip into the pattern. Then adjust the excess above and below the door frame and cut it off using a triangular cutting edge.
Window recesses
Even with small recesses, you don't have to sacrifice a seamless, beautiful overall look. Here, a measured strip of wallpaper is placed on one side of the window so that the excess extends “around the corner” to the window frame (plus allowance). For patterned wallpaper keep an eye on the pattern. Then cut the wallpaper at the height of the window sill and the top edge of the window so that the excess can be folded into the niche and cut to fit the window frame and window sill. Then wallpaper above and below the window before doing the same on the other side of the window.
Radiators
Before you start, the radiator should be turned off and completely cooled down. It is usually sufficient to wallpaper 10 to 20 cm behind the radiator. If the radiator is recessed into the wall, wallpaper it in the same way as for window niches.
Light switches and sockets
Before moving sockets or light switches too close, the power should be turned off at the fuse box. Please check this with an insulated screwdriver, for example. First, remove the covers from the switches and sockets, then simply tape over the sockets or light switches. For sockets, you can then press the earth contacts directly through the wallpaper with your hand. For light switches, first cut the wallpaper crosswise. Once the paste has dried, use a utility knife to cut the switch or socket element free along the metal frame. Finally, simply reattach the covers.
Ceiling
A wallpapered ceiling is a real eye-catcher. This job is best done overhead in a team. First, the first strip of wallpaper is measured and marked, e.g. with a chalk line. Then fix the wallpaper to the ceiling with the light coming from the window. While one person positions the strip of wallpaper and presses it down, the other holds up the rest of the wallpaper, which is still folded, with a clean broom.
Borders
Borders give rooms structure and add beautiful accents. When wallpapering, it is important to distinguish between two types of application: With smooth wallpaper , the position of the border is marked in advance and simply glued over the wallpaper. Apply special border adhesive and press the border onto the desired location. For heavily textured wallpaper, it is best to first paste the border directly onto the wall and then paste the wallpaper strips from top to bottom. For clean edges, simply cut off the excess with a triangular cutting edge.
First aid for wallpapering problems
Is the wallpaper bubbling, wrinkling, or stained?
There are several reasons why the wall covering and the substrate sometimes don't quite agree. Fortunately, there are also a few tips and tricks to ensure that your wallpapering is a complete success.
Substrate
Preparation is key The most common cause of wallpapering problems is incorrect substrate preparation. If bubbles or creases form, the seams shrink or the wallpaper does not stick to the wall, there are several possible causes.
Sinter layers
In this case, the substrate is not sufficiently absorbent and is covered with a sinter layer. Sinter layers are binders that accumulate on the surface and can form when lime-cement plaster is compacted and smoothed, but also on gypsum plaster. These sintered layers form a film on the surface and seal off the substrate. Sintered layers can be detected in raking light, as this reveals shiny areas on the surface. If this is the case, the sintered film should be sanded off mechanically so that the wall can be wallpapered again.
Substrate pasting For surfaces that have been wallpapered several times
If the wall surfaces have already been wallpapered several times, there may be several layers of old paste residue on the surface. As the old paste seals the substrate, the wall is no longer sufficiently absorbent for the paste and it cannot achieve sufficient initial adhesion. In this case, the substrate should be roughened with sandpaper and, if necessary, a regulating primer should be applied to the substrate—such as a pigmented wallpaper primer.
Old waste paper primers
Sometimes these primers are found on the substrate and come off the wall when new wallpaper is applied. This impairs the effectiveness of the paste and the wallpaper will not adhere. In general, paper paste is no longer used and is unsuitable for wallpapering.
Tiefgrund LF and Tapeziertiefgrund
Tiefgrund LF is a plastic dispersion that is often used for priming. If Tiefgrund LF is applied undiluted, it seals the substrate too tightly for wallpapering. Application with a ceiling brush or roller often leads to overlapping of the primer. This prevents the paste from penetrating the substrate optimally. Sufficient initial adhesion is not guaranteed and seams may open or even bubbles may form. A deep primer should always be used for wallpapering, as unlike Deep Primer LF, it contains smaller components that penetrate deeper into the substrate. This is also known as capillary action. The deep primer does not lie on top of the substrate and seal it, but maintains the absorbency of the substrate – which is essential for successful wallpapering.
Emulsion paint
Emulsion paint is highly washable and seals the substrate too tightly. If the wall is pre-coated with it, the paste cannot penetrate the substrate optimally and cannot develop sufficient initial adhesion. Even with premium nonwoven wallcoverings, extreme bubbling can occur. And even after weeks, especially if the room is subject to significant temperature fluctuations, seams may open up. Instead of emulsion paint, we recommend a pigmented wallprimer, which optimally prepares the surface for wallpapering without impairing its absorbency.